Natural Pigment Basics

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natural dying

Natural Dying 101:

Types of dyes:

substantive/ direct dyes– do not require an addition of an extra substance to adhere to the fiber

adjective/ mordant dyes- require a mordant to adhere

Mordants- water soluble chemicals (typically metallic salts) that increase the bond between the dye and the fabric

*Mordant procedures used for animal and plant fibers are not interchangeable as each requires specific dying care.

 

Two types of dying fibers:

Animal (protein) fibers: wool, hair, silk

Plant (cellulose) fibers: cotton, linen, hemp

*it is easier to start dying with protein fibers like wool and silk than with cellulose fibers like cotton and linen.

 

Weight of Fiber (WOF): all measurements are based off of this number. The weight of dyestuff is

measured in WOF and will determine how much materials are needed.

Weight of Fibre x % = Weight of Dyestuff

Ex: To dye a medium-red with madder, we would use 50% WOF.

If we had a pound of cotton we would need a half-pound of madder.

1lb x .5 = .5lb (8 oz)

 

Quick Tips:

  1. After dying rinse out fabrics with PH neutral soap as not to change the dye color
  2. After dying fabrics need to be dried out of direct sunlight to avoid color fading.
  3. Run smaller test samples before using all your materials, and additionally keep records while experimenting with dyes.
  4. Always use clean non-reactive vessels: stainless steel, un-chipped enamel, glass, or plastic